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VISIT
ANDONG
By Leland Ackerson Are you interested in seeing pure, unadulterated Korean culture? Or are you just looking to escape the city for a while? Why not take a break from the night life in Namp'o Dong and Somyon and explore a new place: Andong. Andong is a small city in Kyong Sanbukdo, 3 to 4 hours north of Pusan by bus or train. There is plenty to see there: historic sites, cultural events, museums and natural beauty. You could fit the major sites into a weekend or spend much more time there if you wanted. Getting your Bearings: The intercity bus terminal and the Andong Train Station are on the same side of the main street (Hwarang-no) about a block or two apart. In the plaza in front of the train station there is an information center open during business hours. The lady I talked with did not speak good English but good English maps and guides of the area are available. Accommodations: There are plenty of yogwons in Andong. I suggest the Moon Hwa Hweh Gwan, a Catholic-run hotel, restaruant and civic center. The rooms are clean and big for 25,000-30,000 won per night. I slept on the floor Korean style but you can also get rooms with beds for a bit more money. From the train station, cross the main street (Hwa rang-do) and continue walking straight down Yong go ro Street for 2 blocks. The Moon Hwa Hweh Gwan is a 6-storey building on the right. How to get there: buses leave the Myungneun Dong terminal at least once every hour from 8:30am to 3:50pm. The price is 10,000 won; duration is four hours. Trains leave Pusan Station every hour. The price is between 10,000 won and 17,000 won depending on the type of seating you choose; duration is 3 1/2 hours. If you're adventurous, you could stay at one of the many min baks (youth hostels) at Ha Hoe Ma Ul. When I was there, I met a group of college students who had crammed 20 people into 3 small rooms for two night for 120,000 won! What to See: In my opinion, there are three "must sees" in the Andong area: Hahoe Maul, Tosansowon, and the Andong Folk Museum. Hahoe Maul (pronounced Ha Hweh Ma-uhl) has been preserved as an example of a Korean village in the late Chosun Dynasty. There are different kinds of traditional achitecture from peasants' homes of mud and straw to the nobles' home of wood and stone. Unlike the recreations of the Korean Folk Village near Seoul, the homes at Hahoe Maul are originals, and are still inhabited. Some are identified on tourist boards and opened up for public viewing. Ha Hoe Maul is also the place where traditional Hahoe Folk Dance was developed. As the story goes, a young gentleman, Huh Do-Ryung, received a divine vision and began making wooden masks to be used in a dance which is now considered to be a social activity, a religious event and a social satire. Traditionally, the Hahoe is performed in early January, but in Andong there is usually a performance for tourists on Sundays. In this area, you can also get traditional food and gifts. The Nakdong River, nearby cliffs, rice fields and livestock complete the scenery. Buses leave Andong for Hahoe every hour during business hours. The bus stop is between the bus and train stations on the opposite side of the main street. The trip takes 40 minutes and costs 1500 won. Tosan Sowon (pronounced Do San Suh Wuhn) is a Confucion Academy which was founded in the 1500's by Korea's foremost Confucian scholar, Yi Hwang (a.k.a. Yi T'oe-gye). Renovations in 1970 restored this old academy to its original beauty. The simple architecture surrounded by the area's pristine environment gives visitors an appreciation for how students and instructors lived. There is also a small museum on the premises. Buses leave for Tosansowon each hour and the cost is 1,100won. Be careful: some buses that say Tosansowon actually leave you one mile from the entrance area. The third "must see", even for those who are not museum buffs, is the Andong Folk Museum. Here you will find artifacts and information on the major events and influences of traditional life in the area. The museum employs relatively innovative methods to display information, using dioramas, life-sized models and three-dimensional maps. English explanations of exhibits are plentiful and thorough. The entrance fee is 550 won. A 15-minute bus or taxi ride will get you there from Andong. There are various other things to see in the Andong area, including mountains, hiking trails, temples, Buddhas, pagodas and monuments. Andong itself has two lively markets which are great places to sepnd an afternoon even if you are not planning to buy anything. Some evenings, certain streets are closed to traffic and turned into a walking mall in the restaurant area of town. Don't expect exotic foods but do expect tasty Korean food, good service and cheper prices than most other tourist towns. There are also four movie theaters and innumerable "watering holes". I hope you get a chance to visit Andong. I'm sure you will find it worthwhile. |