June 1999
TRAINS AND BOATS AND PLANES
. . . AND BUSES . . . AND MORE BUSES
Shikakp'yo is a chunky 300-page monthly magazine. The title means “timetable”
and the publication gives untold amounts of information about Korea's public
transportation system, which according to a recent issue of Britain's premier
newspaper, The Guardian, is the world's best. While not being quite as
comprehensive in its coverage as the real epic of the genre, the annual
Hong Kong Public Transportation Guide, it has the merits of being constantly
updated and easily portable. It can claim an indisputable place in the
anorak pocket of any trainspotter, and more importantly, of anybody who
wants or needs to get out of Pusan for a while.
So, let's look at what this traveller's vade mecum tells
us about the various possibilities, starting off in Bacharach-David order.
Trains
Every day sees 31 departures on the Kyongbu line to Seoul by Saemaul,
Mugungwha and the occasional Tongil, with even more laid on at weekends,
but don't forget the other more exotic destinations you can head for. You
can go west on the Kyongchon line to Kwangju and Mokpo (9.27 a.m. and 9.23
p.m.), while the Central line will take you through Haeundae, up the coast
to Ulsan and Kyongju and on to Korea's traditional heartland through Andong
and Yongju. From there, some trains go on to Seoul's eastern terminal at
Chongnyangi while others head off through the valleys and mountains of
Kangwondo, hitting the east coast again at Tonghae. Just before Kangnung,
you can get off at the beachside station of Chongdongjin, nowadays a serious
sunrise-watching resort since it provided the setting for the phenomenally
popular TV series “The Hour Glass” a few years back. It's a great trip
that I think everybody should make at least once, if possible in autumn.
There's a departure every morning at 9.18.
And if you're a serious train buff, or seriously lonely,
how about taking the 6.20 from Pujon Station? It makes its way into Chongnyangi
just over 12 hours later, having stopped absolutely everywhere along the
way. A year ago, this was still served by a desperately uncomfortable Pidulki
(pigeon) train and cost next to nothing, but now it has been upgraded to
a Tongil and will set you back 20,000: still a small price for all the
new friendships you're sure to make.
Boats
A few years ago you could take an extremely slow boat from the Coastal
Ferry Terminal to the small island of Yokchido, spend 10 minutes ashore
and then start back, giving you a splendid day on the ocean wave for W400
or so. Now, slow boats have disappeared, and the only departures listed
for Pusan are for Chejudo and Kojedo; if you want to get to Yokchido you
must go first to Chungmu and take a ferry from there. High-speed ferries
mean high prices. Fares to Changsunpo and Okpo in Kojedo are 12,450. Longer
rides are seriously expensive; a round trip these days from Pohang to Ulleungdo
will cost you 90,000 - almost like going abroad (which I suppose it is).
Talking of Ulleungdo, not a lot of people know that it
was chosen, in 1948, as the site for Korea's second national ski championships.
When the competitors arrived at the end, I guess, of an 8-hour sea ride,
they found there was no snow, and the event was cancelled, never to be
held there again.
Planes
As well as Seoul and Cheju, there's a flight a day to Kwangju, Mokpo
and Kangnung, and two to Wonju, where you'll share the airport with the
US military, and need a 10-minute bus ride to the baggage reclaim. Enough
said.
Buses
Not mentioned at all by Dionne Warwick, buses take up well over 100
pages of Shikakp'yo. Pusan has three long-distance bus stations. The Express
Terminal, a brisk 10-minute walk from Tongnae subway station, handles departures
to 17 major cities, the furthest flung one being the lakeside resort of
Chunchon (3 a day, 6½ hours, 18,200 or 27,300 deluxe).
For slightly less comfortable transport, you can use one
of the inter-city terminals. The Eastern (Dongbu) terminal, across from
Myongnyundong subway, serves 38 destinations; among the most scenic are
Chuhwangsan and the remote temple Kuinsa, on the edge of Sobaeksan National
Park; the furthest is Kojin, at the top right hand corner of the country
(9½ hours, 28,500), where you can taste Korea's finest beer (it's
from north of the border, which you can look over as you drink it).
To reach the opposite corner, make for the Western (Sobu)
terminal at Sasang and board the 11.30 for Chindo, home to the annual sea-parting
and non-edible dogs (6½ hours, 19,800). Chindo is one of no less
than 51 places you can get to from Sasang, including Haeinsa and all the
main temples of Chirisan, Taewonsa, Hwaomsa and Ssangyesa.
The last section of the magazine contains assorted travel
information, including a guide to Korea's youth hostels, 44 at this month's
count. With a few exceptions like Soraksan, they tend to be inconveniently
located, and either empty or full of children or students on MT. Anyway,
at a mere 3,000 won and available at all good bookstores, Shikakp'yo is
a great value. As long as you can read a minimum amount of Han'gul, it
provides a veritable cornucopia of information, much of it useful.
Don't leave home without it.
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